Cycling Notes #4: Finding Stillness at Shasui Falls

A trek into the Tanzawa foothills to discover one of Japan’s storied waterfalls

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Cycling Notes #4: Finding Stillness at Shasui Falls
All photos by the author

Legend has it that famed Kamakura-era monk, Mongaku, undertook a rigorous 100-day meditation under the cascading, ice-cold water of Shasui Falls. Although I certainly didn’t do the same, I like to believe I achieved a sliver of enlightenment during my visit to this stunning Kanagawa landmark, brimming with history and culture.

Due to surgery earlier this year, my cycling range remains limited. Therefore, these days, my goal is to find new and intriguing destinations within a 40-kilometer round trip from my home (bonus to my body if the route has minimal inclines). When I lived in Tokyo, 40 kilometers meant barely getting out of the city and back. Fortunately, Odawara, where I now call home, offers a bounty of natural beauty. This means my bike rides are blessed with scenic vistas from the moment my feet touch the pedals. Still, the challenge to discover novel excursions remains, as I’ve already spent over a year exploring what I call the Odawara Valley (Odawara, Oi, Kaisei, and Minamiashigara).

Scenery from what I call the Odawara Valley

Fortunately, I tend to spend an absurd amount of time poking around on Google Maps to plan my rides, and when I eyed an attractive waterfall near Yamakita Station, I figured it would be an ideal destination. I knew the inclines would be tough in my current state, but that was nothing a good ice pack couldn’t alleviate upon my return. So, I set off to Shasui Falls, and I was overjoyed with what I found.

Nestled in the foothills of the Tanzawa Mountains, the path to Shawsui Falls is easy to miss. In my case, coming by bike, it was just a matter of turning onto a nondescript road in a sleepy mountain village. Visitors who come by train or car are primed with more obvious signage. With Saishoji (temple) nearby, the falls are famous for the Buddhist ritual of waterfall cleansing (takigyo). Perhaps you’ve seen it before: the iconic image of a monk stoically standing under frigid, fast-flowing water in an act of purification.

Saishoji (temple)

Despite being off the beaten path, Shasui Falls has earned notoriety through recognition on the following lists¹:

· Kanagawa Prefecture Top 50 Scenic Spots (1979)

· Japan’s Top 100 Waterfalls (1990)

· Japan’s 100 Famous Water Sources (1985)

· Kanagawa Future Heritage 100 (2001)

Accolades aside, what impressed me the most was the simple tranquility of the falls. Even when arriving just before 9 a.m. (late in the morning by my standards), I had the whole mountain alcove to myself: just me and the calming sights, sounds, and scents of the falls and their verdant surroundings. Aside from a few modern trappings, such as the nearby café, I imagine I shared similar emotions to those of the monks who popularized this spot centuries ago.

Speaking of modern trappings, I certainly can’t complain about the nearby observation deck. Despite having just cycled across the Odawara Valley and into the Tanzawa foothills, I didn’t hesitate to ascend 226 steps to earn a sublime, top-down view of the falls. This effort wasn’t nearly as monumental as monks enduring the icy torrents of Shasui Falls, but the view from the summit was nonetheless rewarding.

Viewing Shasui Falls from the observation deck.
The view from the top of the observation deck, looking away from the falls

A brief video of the falls


¹山北町. “洒水の滝.” Accessed November 6, 2025. https://www.town.yamakita.kanagawa.jp/0000000198.html.